POTOMAC RIVER GUIDE

Lower Potomac Treasures

The 60-mile stretch of the Lower Potomac, from the mouth of the river at Chesapeake Bay to the U.S. 301 Bridge near Morgantown, Md., is a broad tidal estuary. The Lower Potomac is the river of John Smith and early settlers, of the tobacco culture of the tidewater, and of important American families like the Lees and the Washingtons.

ST. MARY'S COUNTY, MD.
CHARLES COUNTY, MD.
NORTHERN NECK OF VA.

Saint Mary's County, Md.

St. Mary's County Overview	Paul Hall Center for Maritime Education
Point Lookout State Park	Black Panther Shipwreck Park
St. Mary's College of Md.	Breton Bay Area
St. Mary's City	Leonardtown
St. Mary's River State Park	St. Clement's Island
The Maryland Dove	Potomac River Museum
Lower St. Mary's Sites	Wicomico River
Potomac Oysters	St. Mary's Recreational Sites
Piney Point	Charles County Listings

INDEX

St. Mary's County, Md.

St. Mary's County is named after St. Mary, the mother of Jesus. The county seat is Leonardtown, which is also the county's principal town. Lexington Park, near the Patuxent Naval Air Station, is another rapidly growing area. The first Europeans to settle in Maryland arrived in St. Mary's County in 1634.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, an estimated 30 Native American tribes occupied areas along both sides of the Maryland and Virginia shorelines. One of them was called the "Patawomeke," a powerful Algonquian Indian nation. The Patawomeke lived on the Virginia side of the river. The tribe joined with other Algonquian nations to form an alliance known as the Powhatan Confederacy, the same group of Native Americans associated with John Smith and Pocahontas. The Powhatan Confederacy was formed just prior to the arrival of the Virginia colonists in 1607. John Smith encountered the Powhatans in 1608 and was one of the first Europeans to record the name Potomac in his journal.

St. Mary's County is bounded on three sides by water: To the north is the Patuxent River; to the east is Chesapeake Bay; to the south is the Potomac. Charles County is to the west.

St. Mary's County Division of Tourism, P.O. Box 653, Leonardtown, MD 20650. Telephone: 800-327-9023.

Point Lookout State Park

Near the confluence of the Potomac and Chesapeake Bay was an infamous Civil War prisoner camp, but Point Lookout's history goes back further. A lighthouse built here in 1830 marked the treacherous currents between the Bay and the Potomac. In the 1850s, the site was a summer resort, with a hotel, more than 100 beach cottages, and a large wharf.

As the Civil War engulfed the region, Union forces operated a hospital and prisoner of war camp here. After the Battle of Gettysburg, construction began on a rebel camp capable of holding 10,000 prisoners of war. Conditions at the prison, called Camp Hoffman, were not good; the water was polluted and there was insufficient food and shelter. The prison held more than 50,000 Confederate prisoners between 1863 and 1865; more than 3,000 died at the camp; many are buried at a national cemetery nearby. The site is commemorated by a Confederate Monument in Scotland, 3 miles north of Point Lookout. A museum/visitor center at Point Lookout State Park interprets the Civil War prison history. Weekly history programs are conducted from June through September.

Park rangers tell stories of unusual (and possibly unnatural) events in the area around Point Lookout. Many of them are related to the prisoners of war who suffered in the area; others come from the victims of shipwrecks in the treacherous waters around the point. Many of the unusual activities involve the Point Lookout Lighthouse, one of four remaining lighthouses on the river. The light, on top of a two-story house, was first lit in 1830, and could be seen for up to 12 miles. During the Civil War, it was heavily guarded. In 1930, it was part of an experiment to evaluate wind energy for power. The light was replaced with a navigation light in 1965. Fishing is easy, although a Maryland saltwater sport fishing license is required. The park is also a good place to try crabbing. The camp store sells crab nets, string, and chicken for bait. No license is required for recreational crabbing. The guarded swimming area is often crowded on summer weekends. The park offers a bath house, grills, picnic tables, and playground equipment. Boat launching, boat rentals, hiking trails, and campsites are also available. Annual events include an Easter Sunrise Service and Halloween programs in October. Directions: Follow Md. Route 5 about 70 miles from the Capital Beltway south. After Mechanicsville, follow Route 235 south to the point.

Point Lookout State Park, Md. Dept. of Natural Resources, Star Route Box 48, Scotland, MD 20687. Telephone: 301-872-5688. Fee for admission is $2 per person. Rates are half-price on Wednesdays.

St. Mary's City

In March of 1634, only 26 years after the pioneering exploration by Captain John Smith, colonists arrived at St. Clement's Island, about 25 miles upriver from the mouth of the Potomac. They moved to a site on the St. Mary's River (about 17 miles back down the Potomac), where they established a colony.

The settlers were led by Leonard Calvert, who became the first governor of the Maryland colony. The settlers were only the first of many to come to the Potomac region in the early 17th century. In Virginia, settlers arrived at Coan Creek, about 15 miles upstream from the mouth of the Potomac in Northumberland County in 1648. The Lower Potomac section of Virginia, known as the Northern Neck, developed its own culture, separated by the wide Potomac from the Maryland colonists, and from other Virginia settlements by considerable distance.

The Maryland settlers arrived at St. Mary's on March 27, 1634. They immediately began constructing homes, meeting with the natives (who showed them how to hunt, fish, and gather oysters). Instead of searching for gold, as many settlers did, the St. Mary's inhabitants got on with the business of building a colony.

The St. Mary's settlers also brought with them a strong belief in religious freedom, which was to pervade the Maryland culture for a century or more. The churches were open to all, and the right of individual residents to practice any Christian religion was enforced.Interpretation at Historic St. Mary's City features costumed living history demonstrations and participatory activities, historic vignettes, and walking tours. During the archaeological field season, guided tours of the digs are offered. The museum has an active school tour program, including hands-on activities and living history outreach. Special events include Maryland Days in March, a Grand Militia Muster, Tidewater Archaeology Weekend, and Harvest Home. Public programming offers lectures, traditional music concerts, and outdoor theater.

The Maryland Dove

A replica of the Dove, one of two ships that carried the colonists to St. Mary's City, is on display at St. Mary's City. The Maryland Dove was constructed in the 1970s to serve as an educational exhibit and traveling historical reminder of Maryland's settlement.

The Maryland Dove is a full-scale operating replica of the ship that carried supplies for the 1634 expedition. Settlers arrived on the passenger ship, the Ark. Both ships sailed from the Isle of Wight on November 22, 1633. They were soon separated at sea, but came back together six weeks later at Barbados. The ships stopped in Virginia before arriving at St. Clement's Island on March 25, 1634. In August 1635, the Dove set sail for England loaded with beaver pelts and timber. She never arrived in England and was presumed lost in a North Atlantic storm. The replica of the Dove was built on the Chesapeake Bay's Eastern Shore in 1975, using many 17th-century methods and tools. The keel was laid in June 1977 and the ship was commissioned in 1978.

Hours of operation for Historic St. Mary's City are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday, from March 22 through the end of November. The exhibits are also open on Memorial Day, the Fourth of July, and Labor Day. The museum's Visitor Center and archaeology exhibit hall are open, Wednesday through Sunday, throughout the year; cosed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Day. Admission to the museum is $6.50 for adults, $6.00 for seniors (60 and over) and students (13-18 and college ID); and $3.25 for children (6-12). Group rates and guided group tours are also available.

Directions: From the Capital Beltway in Maryland, take exit 7 (Md. Route 5) south approximately 70 miles to St. Mary's City.

Historic St. Mary's City, St. Mary's City Commission, Box 39, St. Mary's City, MD 20686. Telephone: 301-862-0990 or 1-800-SMC-1634.

St. Mary's College of Md.

This college, part of the University of Maryland system, was founded in 1840 in St. Mary's City as a "living monument" to the earliest English settlers in Maryland. Designated as a public honors college, it is the most selective college or university in public higher education in Maryland. The college features a relatively small size (about 1300 students), with most students living on campus and involved in a strong liberal arts curriculum.

The school sponsors numerous music, theater, art, and poetry programs throughout the year. The Governor's Cup Yacht Race is an annual August event. The college's boat dock is open to boaters year-round. Although campus events are open to the public, some have a fee.

Directions: The school is located at St. Mary's City, 15 miles south of Leonardtown; 7 miles south of Lexington Park. Access via boat is from the Potomac to St. Mary's River.

St. Mary's College of Maryland, Public Relations Office, St. Mary's City, MD 20686. Telephone: 301-862-0380.

Other St. Mary's Sites

Trinity Episcopal Church,on Route 5 at St. Mary's City, was built from bricks salvaged from the original State House. The Leonard Calvert Monument, located on church grounds, marks the site where the Maryland colonists assembled to establish government and freedom to worship.

St. Ignatius Church: The first chapel in Maryland, named for St. Ignatius Loyola, founder of the Society of Jesus (the Jesuits), was built at St. Mary's in 1641. In 1704, after religious services were forbidden at the chapel, the parish moved to St. Inigoes Manor, down the St. Mary's River. In 1745, a small wooden church was built; in 1785, the present St. Ignatius Church was constructed. Today, the church is open daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., and schedules special services on Maryland Day (March 29). The church is located off Route 5, on Villa Road in St. Inigoes.

St. George's Island, on Route 249, is connected to the mainland by a steel bridge. The island once belonged to the Jesuits as a part of St. Inigoes Manor. In July 1776, a battle was fought here to keep the British from crossing to the mainland. The area here has long been famous for its oyster crop. Today, vacation cottages, seafood restaurants, and good fishing attract numerous visitors to this small island.

A boat ramp is available on the mainland side of the bridge.

St. Mary's River State Park

A flood control dam is the main feature of this 2100-acre park, with a 250-acre lake and woodlands. The lake drains an area of 5,600 acres in the watershed of the St. Mary's River. Hiking trails, picnicking, and fishing are available, as well as a small boat ramp. From May to September, there is a service charge on weekends.

Directions: St. Mary's River State Park is located three miles north of Great Mills, and 24 miles north of Point Lookout State Park, on Md. Route 5 and Camp Cosoma Road.

Potomac Oysters

The famous bivalve is still harvested extensively in the lower Potomac, although a devastating tropical storm in 1972 dumped huge amounts of fresh water in the river, killing many oysters. Oysters have been taken from the Potomac river bottom for more than three centuries, peaking in the enormous harvests of the early 20th century. The Potomac's combination of salinity, low level of disease and predators, and large areas suitable for growth, stimulated the development of many productive oyster beds. But declines in oyster reproduction, combined with overharvesting, siltation, and pollution from upstream sources, have led to a continued decline in harvests through the 1980s and into the 1990s. The 1992-93 oyster season in Maryland totalled only about 120,000 bushels, an all-time low, and a fraction of the 2.5 million bushels harvested annually in the 1970s. Scientists blamed oyster diseases for keeping the oysters from growing to market size. The diseases are not harmful to humans, but they reduce the size of oysters, which cannot be harvested if they are below a certain size. Similar low levels of harvesting were reported in Virginia. Research is aimed at fighting the diseases, improving oyster habitat, and perhaps introducing disease-resistant species of oysters to revive the industry. The oyster has had an important role in Potomac history. A compact between Maryland and Virginia in 1785 allowed fishing in the river by watermen from both states. Cooperation between the two states continued until the supply of oysters began to dwindle, at which point Maryland imposed restrictions on harvesting. Virginia watermen, refusing to honor the Maryland regulations, evaded enforcement activities and became involved in gun battles, called the "oyster wars." Another compact, signed in 1958, ended the hostilities and created a bistate commission (headquartered in Virginia) that continues to regulate the fishery and enforce regulations. The Potomac River Fisheries Commission patrols the river to enforce rules against power dredging of oysters and other practices considered harmful. The commission levies a charge on each bushel of oysters harvested, putting most of the funds raised to replenishment of oyster growing beds. Since oysters generally grow on the shells of other oysters, the commission has an extensive program of rebuilding shell beds in key locations in the Potomac and its tributaries. St. Mary's County is the site of the annual Oyster Festival and the National Oyster Shucking Championship Contest, sponsored by the Rotary Club of St. Mary's County every year during the third weekend in October. Oyster shucking champions from up to a dozen states compete for cash prizes and a trip to the international oyster shucking championship held in Galway, Ireland, every year. The Oyster Festival also has a cook-off featuring a variety of soups, stews, and dishes with oysters as the main ingredient. St. Mary's County Osyter Festival, P.O. Box 766, California, MD 20619. Telephone: 301-863-5015. St. Mary's County Historical Society, 11 Courthouse Drive, Leonardtown, MD 20650.

Piney Point

Piney Point has been a summer resort since the days of President James Madison. Today, it still lures many summer visitors with its vacation houses, waterfront restaurants, and easy access to boating facilities. A new attraction here features the Piney Point Lighthouse Museum that focuses on the oldest permanent lighthouse on the Potomac. The exterior of the lighthouse, a 35-foot tall brick tower, has been partially re-stored. The lighthouse began operation in 1836, with a light that could be seen for more than 11 miles. The lighthouse functioned until 1964, when it was replaced by a lighted buoy in the river. The museum and lighthouse can be visited from dawn to dusk. A boardwalk, flanked by plaques describing the history of the area, leads to the river. No swimming, fishing, or camping is allowed. The museum building contains exhibits on the history of Potomac lighthouses and has a small gift shop. A public boat launching area is nearby. The site was a summer resort in the early 20th century; during the Civil War, a federal gunboat captured a Confederate camp on the point on January 5, 1864. Several full service marinas can be found on Piney Point as well as a large tank farm operated by Steuart Oil Company. Directions: From Route 5 south, take Route 249 south to Piney Point. Piney Point Lighthouse Museum, St. Mary's County Division of Parks, Leonardtown, MD 20650. Telephone: 301-769-2222

Paul Hall Center for Marine Education

America's largest school for merchant marines is nestled on 60 acres on a quiet cove near Piney Point. Established in 1967, the Lundeberg Maryland Seamanship School has attracted as many as 5,000 students. During the 1970s, the number of students declined as the demand for merchant marines dipped; but in recent years, more jobs have been available for graduates. The school has an extensive physical training program, including knot-tying, lowering lifeboats, and handling fire equipment. The complex includes dormitories, training ships, and other facilities. It is funded by U.S. shipping companies and operated by the Seafarers International Union. The school is named for the founder and first president of the union, Harry Lundeberg. The school's Basic Vocational Education and Basic Food Service programs guarantee each student a well-paid job aboard a vessel that is under a contractual agreement between the private shipping companies and the Seafarers International Union. The advanced and specialized programs assure upward mobility through the maritime industry. The school also has programs for high school equivalency, reading improvement, and self-enrichment as well as college programs. Open house is on the first Sunday of every month from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Paul Hall Center for Marine Education and Lundeberg Maryland Seamanship School, P.O. Box 75, Star Route 249, Piney Point, MD 20674. Telephone: 301-994-0010.

Black Panther Historic Shipwreck Preserve

A World War II-era German submarine lies at the bottom of the Potomac about one mile offshore from Piney Point. The U-1105 Black Panther surrendered to the British at the end of World War II and was selected by the U.S. Navy as a target for explosives testing. Sunk in 1949, the wreck was rediscovered in 1985. Designated in November 1994 as an historic shipwreck preserve, the 51-year old submarine is Maryland's first underwater diving preserve. The site is only for advanced divers experienced in low visibility environments. Collecting artifacts from the ship is prohibted. Black Panther Historic Shipwreck Preserve, St. Mary's County Dept. of Recreation and Parks, Governmental Center, Leonardtown, MD 20650. Telephone: 301-475-5621.

Breton Bay

One of the few large industrial sites still operating on the Potomac River, Breton Bay is the home of Breton Bay Water Transportation, a company that hauls barges of sand and gravel up the Potomac to Washington. Tugboats push barges, each capable of holding 900 tons, up the river, usually to mooring areas at Occoquan Bay near Woodbridge and in Washington at the South Capitol Street Bridge on the Anacostia. Another company, Goose Bay, operates sand and gravel barges along the Potomac in Charles County. Industrial use of the Potomac is a fraction of what it was in the early 1900s. The only remaining commercial traffic on the river, other than the sand and gravel barges, are occasional oil shipments and small ocean-going freighters that deliver one boatload of newsprint each week to the Robinson Terminal Warehouse in Alexandria.

Leonardtown, Md.

County seat of St. Mary's County, this small community has been overshadowed by the development of the naval base and related facilities at the nearby Patuxent River Naval Air Test Center. Leonardtown has an 18th-century Tudor Hall housing the St. Mary's County Memorial Library and the Old Jail Museum, built in 1858. The town, founded in 1652, was named for Benedict Leonard Calvert, the 4th Lord Baltimore and sponsor of the first settlement expedition. Potomac Arch Park is located near the shores of the Breton Bay south of town. Leonardtown is located on Md. 234 one mile north of the intersection with Md. 4. St. Clement's Bay_Named by the first settlers in Maryland in 1634, this bay is marked by St. Clement's Island and Colton Point. The peninsula of land between Breton Bay and St. Clement's Bay is the site of St. Francis Xavier Church, built in 1731, making it the oldest Catholic Church in continuous use in English-speaking America.

St. Clement's Island

Once known as Blackiston Island, St. Clement's Island was the first landing site of the Maryland colonists on March 25, 1634. Father Andrew White, one of the leaders of the expedition, wrote that "in this place we first offered [mass], erected a crosse, and with devotion took solemn possession of the Country." The colonists decided that the island was not suitable for their settlement and moved south to St. Mary's City. On the 300th anniversary of the landing in 1934, a large cross was erected on the island to commemorate the event. Today, the island has eroded from 400 acres to about 40 acres. Although the island has seen many different uses, today, the State of Maryland has stabilized the erosion and returned the island to a natural state. It is still the site of the annual Blessing of the Fleet, which takes place the first weekend in October. A special boat runs to St. Clement's Island only during the Blessing of the Fleet.

The St. Clement's Island-Potomac River Museum

The museum is located on Colton Point opposite St. Clement's Island. Exhibits feature the saga of the first Maryland colonists as they ventured across a hostile ocean to settle a new land far from England. Exhibits are presented through the eyes of historic characters who relate their story to visitors through first-person experiences. Featured are Father Andrew White, Leonard Clavert, Mathias DeSousa, and Rose Gilbert. The museum also features exhibits on the maritime history of the lower Potomac River. During the summer, the museum is open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on weekdays and noon to 5 p.m. on weekends. In winter, the museum is open Wednesday through Sunday, noon to 4 p.m. Directions: Take Md. Route 5 south from Exit 7 of the Capital Beltway to Rt. 242. Turn right on Rt. 242 south to Colton Point. St. Clement's Island-Potomac River Museum, Bayview Road, Colton Point, MD 20626. Telephone: 301-769-2222.

St. Mary's County Recreational Facilities

Marinas and boat ramps on the Potomac and tributaries in St. Mary's County include: Point Lookout State Park: Four launch sites, pier, parking area off Point Lookout Road at Lake Conoy. Telephone: 301-872-5668 St. Inigoes Boat Ramp: On Beachville Road north of Point Lookout at Smith Creek; Telephone: 301-475-4571. St. Mary's River State Park_In St. Mary's City near the intersection of Md. Routes 5 and 584. Telephone: 301-892-0990 Piney Point: At the causeway of Md. 249 (Piney Point Road) over St. George's Creek. Telephone: 301-475-4574 Tall Timbers: Full-service marina with 170 slips. From Md. 249 to Tall Timbers Road to Herring Creek Road. Telephone: 301-994-1508. Curley's Point: 30 slips. From Md. 249 to Clarke Road, Tall Timbers. Telephone: 301-994-1212. Kopel's Marina:Full-service marina with more that 100 slips. Md. Route 242 in Colton's Point. Telephone: 1-800-262-8357. White's Neck Creek: At the end of White's Neck Road (Md. 520) off Md. 242 8 miles south of Md. 5. Telephone: 301-475-4571 Bushwood Wharf: At the end of Bushwood Road off Md. 238 (Maddox Road) 9 miles south of Md. 5 (Mechanicsville). Telephone: 301-475-4574 Chaptico Wharf: On Chaptico Wharf Road off Md. 238 (Maddox Road) 8 miles south of the intersection of Md. 238 and Md. 5. Telephone: 301-475-4574 Wicomico Shores Ramp and Marina: On Coffee Hill Road at the headwaters of the Wicomico River south of Budds Creek. Telephone: 301-475-4574.

Wicomico River

Historic tributary of the Lower Potomac, marked by the Cobb Point lighthouse on the Potomac (established in 1889), this river marks the boundary between St. Mary's County and Charles County. Christ Church (originally built in 1692 and rebuilt in 1737) and the "Hard Bargain" manor are found near the Wicomico. Fishermen and boaters can find bustling marinas and seafood restaurants at the confluence of the Wicomico and the Potomac. From U.S. 301 on the Charles County shores of the Wicomico, Route 257 and then Route 254 lead to Cobb Island, with its many riverfront cottages. Farther up the river a modern-day ritual takes place on the Wicomico in Charles County: the return each February of the yellow perch at Allens Fresh. Boat launching sites on the Wicomico include the town of Allens Fresh and Bushwood Wharf, west on Bushwood Road from Md. 238, and Chaptico wharf ramp, off Md. 238 in Chaptico. Allens Fresh has the distinction of being one of the terminals of the first mail route established in the American colonies in 1695. Mail was carried to Philadelphia and back eight times each year. The upper Wicomico River is the site of two auto racing sites: The Maryland International Raceway and the Potomac Speedway, both located off Route 234 at Budds Creek.

Charles County, Md.

Charles County Overview

Morgantown PEPCO Plant

Gov. Harry Nice Bridge

Aqua-Land Marina

More Charles County Sites

INDEX

Charles County

A booming suburban county south of Washington, Charles County was named after Charles Calvert, Third Lord Baltimore, who lived from 1637 to 1671. The county seat is LaPlata. Principal towns are Waldorf and Indian Head. The county's history is mainly agricultural, focusing on the growth of tobacco. Although many tobacco farms have been replaced with subdivisions, regular tobacco auctions are still held at Hughesville on Route 5. With more than 100 miles of Potomac shoreline, Charles County is actively promoting its excellent fishing and recreational resources. The county is bounded by Prince George's County to the North, and St. Mary's County to the east. Charles County Tourism, 8190 Port Tobacco Road, Port Tobacco, MD 20677. Telephone: 1-800-766-3386.

Morgantown

Site of the Morgantown Generating Station, which supplies large amounts of electrical power for the Washington metropolitan area. Potomac Electric Power Company's Morgantown Generating Station has a net summer capacity of 1,412 megawatts. It provides electricity for Washington, D.C. and most of Montgomery and Prince George's counties in Maryland. The coal- or oil-fired plant was dedicated in June 1970. The plant is located on U.S. 301 south, at the Harry Nice Bridge. Tours are available for groups only with prior arrangements. PEPCO Morgantown Generating Station, Potomac Electric Power Co., Educational Services and Community Relations, Room 506, 1900 Penn-sylvania Ave. N.W., Washington, DC 20068. Telephone: 202-872-3490, 8:30 a.m. to 5:15 p.m, Monday through Friday.

Governor Harry W. Nice Memorial Bridge

This bridge, (otherwise known as the "Potomac River Bridge") was dedicated to Md. Governor Harry W. Nice. The bridge, at a dramatic turn in the river, marks the dividing line between the Lower Potomac Estuary and the Upper Estuary. The bridge is the only Potomac crossing below Washington, and was opened in 1940. At approximately this point, a famous ferry ran from Morgantown, Md. to Mathias Point in Virginia, as early as 1705. The ferry was part of the shortest route between the capitals of Maryland and Virginia and served as a principal link in the journeys of many early Americans, including George Washington, George Mason, and other founding fathers. Nearby is also the site of one of the river crossings by John Wilkes Booth after his assassination of Abraham Lincoln. The Harry W. Nice Bridge is operated by the Maryland Transportation Authority. Tolls are $1.50 for cars, collected southbound only.

Aqua-Land Marina

A large, full-service marina operates on the north side of the Potomac River Bridge carrying U.S. 301. The marina services large power boats and sailing vessels, and also has boats for rent. A campground is available for recreational vehicles. Aqua-Land Marina, 301 Potomac River Bridge, Newburg, MD 20664. Telephone: 301-259-0572

Northern Neck of Va.

Northumberland County	Washington's Birthplace

Smith Point	Ingleside Plantation
Reedville	Colonial Beach
Westmoreland County	Dahlgren
Stratford Hall	Potomac Gateway Welcome Center
Westmoreland State Park	Va. Boat Ramps

INDEX

The Northern Neck of Va.

Far fewer people settled on the Virginia shore, and it is still less populated than the Maryland side. However, some important sites are to be found here, in what is referred to as the "Northern Neck" of Virginia, formed by the spit of land between the Potomac and Rappahannock Rivers. Counties near the Potomac include Northumberland, Westmoreland, King George, and Stafford. Directions to the Northern Neck: From the Capital Beltway, take Maryland Exit 7B (Route 5) south 9 miles to the junction with U.S. Route 301. Follow the combined Routes 5 and 301 for 6 miles, and continue on U.S. 301 approximately 20 miles to where U.S. 301 crosses the Potomac (a toll bridge). In Virginia, follow U.S. 301 about 12 miles to Va. Route 3. Follow Va. 3 south to points along the lower Potomac in the Northern Neck. At Warsaw, Va., Route 3 intersects with U.S. 360, which provides access to Northumberland County points along the lower Potomac, including Smith Point. The Potomac Gateway Welcome Center is located on U.S. 301 just south of the Potomac River Bridge. It is open 7 days a week, from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information, contact Northern Neck Travel Council, P.O. Box 312, Reedville, VA 22539. Telephone: 800-453-6167.

Northumberland County

The southernmost county of Virginia's Northern Neck, Northumberland juts out into the Chesapeake Bay. Its easternmost point, Smith Point, is at the mouth of the Potomac. The county seat is Heathsville. Towns include Callao, Lottsburg, Burgess, Lilian, and Reedville, all connected by U.S. 360. Northumberland County Chamber of Commerce & Visitor Center, P.O. Box 147, (Hwy. 360), Callao, VA 22435. Telephone: 804-529-5031.

Smith Point

The point marking the tip of the Potomac at the Chesapeake Bay is named for Captain John Smith. The river is more than 11 miles wide, from Smith Point to Point Lookout, Md. Smith Point is known for excellent fishing for big bluefish and trout. The fishing starts each year with the arrival of bluefish in mid-April. The peak of the trout season is usually in early June. The annual Bluefish Derby is held nearby each year in Reedville. The derby has prizes of nearly $50,000.

Reedville

Reedville is named for Captain Elijah Reed. It features historic Victorian mansions built by factory owners and fishing boat captains. Main Street was known as "Millionaire's Row," home to wealthy fishermen who made their fortunes from the menhaden that was plentiful in the Potomac and Chesapeake Bay. The Reedville Fishermen's Museum, in the Reedville Historic District, tells the story of the menhaden fishing industry, the watermen of the Northern Neck, and the Victorian fishing village of Reedville. Self-guided walking tours of the historic district are available from the museum. Reedville is also a significant charter fishing center for Chesapeake Bay bluefish and rockfish with more than 50 boats operating out of the area. An official Virginia scenic byway, the Northumberland Heritage Trail, from the Reedville Historic District to the Heathsville Historic District, follows back roads along the Potomac and its tributaries. It crosses the Little Wicomico River via the Sunnybank Ferry. Established in 1906, this is one of two remaining free ferries in Virginia. For several decades, it carried workers to the Reedville menhaden industry. The present metal boat, the Northumberland, began service in 1985. Blow your horn for ferry service 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Entry information for the Bluefish Derby is available from Smith Point Sea Rescue, Inc., P.O. Box 203, Reedville, VA 22539, or from Jetts Hardware, Reedville, VA 22539. Telephone: 804-453-5325. Cruises are available from Reedville to Smith Island in Chesapeake Bay at the KOA Campground near Reedville. For information, call 804-453-3430.A day cruise to Tangier Island is also available in Reedville. For information, call 804-453-2628.

Westmoreland County

Westmoreland County, largest of the five counties in Virginia's Northern Neck, has the unique distinction of being the only county in America with the birthplaces of two Presidents of the United States: George Washington and James Monroe. The county earned the title of "Athens of Virginia" in the years before the Revolution. Several of the mansions of colonial America survive along the banks of the river. In Revolutionary times, an association was formed at Leedstown to resist the enforcement of the Stamp Act. The resolutions opposing the Stamp Act, authored by Richard Henry Lee, were one of the first protests against the Act and helped galvanize public opinion against the British. The county seat of Westmoreland County is Montross. Westmoreland County Council for Travel and Tourism, Visitor Center, Courthouse Square, Montross, VA 22520. Telephone: 804-493-8440. Yeocomico River: An Indian name, roughly translated as "tossed to and fro by the waters," gives this historic creek its name. At the mouth of the Yeocomico, a bloody naval battle was fought during the War of 1812, on July 14, 1813. A British force with a five-to-one advantage attacked an American vessel, leaving no survivors. Kinsale: The oldest town on the Virginia side of the Potomac, this small Westmoreland County town is located on a low bluff at the head of a branch of the Yeocomico River. On the south bank of the river is a monument erected over the grave of Lt. Sigourney, U.S. Navy, who was killed in action in the battle at the mouth of the Yeocomico Creek during the War of 1812. The recently opened Kinsale Museum on the green in the heart of the village has exhibits focusing on the rich history of the town. The museum is open from May 1-October 1, Thursday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Sunday from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Coles Point Plantation: Marina, restaurant, and campground on the Potomac features 115 slips, more than 100 shaded campsites, rental cottages, a swimming pool, and a variety of services for boaters. Located on Route 728 at Coles Point. For information, call 804-472-4488 Yeocomico Church (1706): This Northern Neck Church is on the site of one of the earliest Christian places of worship in the New World. A wooden chapel was built in 1655 and replaced in 1706 by the present structure. Membership in the church included many of the early families of Virginia, including Washington, Lee, and Carter. The church is a National Historic Landmark, located off Route 606 near Hague, Va. Nomini Cliffs: The highest bluffs along the lower Potomac mark the stretch of Virginia shoreline from Nomini Creek to Pope's Creek, where the Lees and Washingtons both had estates.

Stratford Hall

The ancestral home of the Lee Family of Virginia, Stratford Hall is restored and operated by the Robert E. Lee Memorial Association. The home is one of the most imposing structures to be found anywhere along the Potomac, with eight massive chimneys and a dominating brick building. In the early 1730s, Virginia planter Thomas Lee bought a cliff plantation, and replaced a house with the present structure. Thomas Lee used bricks made on the site (the soil has a high clay content). Timbers cut from virgin forest were used throughout. The Great Hall in the center of the building has elaborately carved decorations and woodwork. The building is considered a reflection of the political power in the Tidewater region, and an architectural oddity: it may be the only American colonial structure to use the Italian style of bedrooms on the ground floor and living quarters on the second floor. The site, located a considerable distance from the riverbank (probably to discourage intruders from the river) signified control of an important part of the Potomac. In a single generation during the 18th century, six Lee brothers lived here. Two became members of the Virginia House of Burgesses; two others were signers of the Declaration of Independence. The other two represented Virginia in Europe. General "Light Horse Harry" Lee, a relative, lived at Stratford; his son, the great Confederate general Robert E. Lee was born here, January 19, 1807. Robert E. Lee's boyhood home is upstream in Alexandria, and he spent much of his adult life in the Potomac valley. Stratford Hall is preserved essentially the way it was 250 years ago. It was owned by the Lee family until 1822; in 1929, the Robert E. Lee Memorial Foundation purchased the site and began restoration efforts. It is still a working plantation using 1600 acres of the original site, and is one of the oldest continuing agricultural operations in America. Stratford has many buildings on the grounds, in addition to the main house. These include a stable, coach house, school, and law offices. The Jesse duPont Library houses an outstanding collection of 18th-century books and maps, many of them concerned with colonial issues. Stratford Hall has scenic nature trails and a formal garden. Depending on the season, visitors may find a grist mill grinding corn, wheat, oats, or barley. A log cabin dining room serves a plantation lunch daily from April through October. The road to the mill, an overlook, and a beach on the Potomac is open from April through mid-January, 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. daily, weather permitting. Stratford Hall is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. An entrance fee is charged: $7 for adults; $6 for seniors (60 and over); and $3 each for children (6-18). Directions: Take Beltway Exit 7 in Md. (Route 5) south to Route 301; follow 301 across the Potomac to Va. Route 3; go left on Route 3 to Lerty, turn left on Route 214 to Stratford. From Virginia, take I-95 south of Washington to Fredericksburg and Route 3. Follow Route 3 to Lerty and turn left at Route 214. Stratford Hall, Robert E. Lee Memorial Association, Inc., Stratford, VA 22558. Telephone: 804-493-8038.

Westmoreland State Park

One of the Northern Neck's major destinations is Westmoreland State Park, a large (1300-acre) Potomac park offerin canoeing areas,hiking trails, and unusual geological formations. Horsehead Cliffs, where cliffs rise 150 feet above the Potomac shoreline, has fossils including shark teeth, whalebones, and other artifacts. The Potomac shoreline stretches for 1.5 miles along the park. In prehistoric times, the ocean stretched all the way to the fall line (at Great Falls, above Washington on the Potomac). The cliffs developed from sediments that fell to the sea floor_thus explaining the abundance of shark teeth, whale remains, even sea crocodiles. The soft sediments preserved many of the bones and teeth. Scientists believe that about 2 million years ago, an ice age began and the polar ice caps began to expand. As a result, the sea level began to recede and fell to a point even lower than it is today. The Chesapeake Bay was turned into a river valley (of the Susquehanna). When the ice age ended (about 20,000 years ago), the ice melted and sea levels rose rapidly, flooding the river valleys and creating the Bay. Erosion, a natural process, continues to change the face of the lower Potomac. The cliffs of Westmoreland Park are eroding at a rate of about two feet a year. Similar erosion can be noted across the river at St. Clement's Island, which is a fraction of the size it was when discovered by the early settlers of Maryland. Trails at Westmoreland State Park traverse the Big Meadow marsh, which is fed by a flow of fresh water from a spring. Bird life is extensive in the park, including the bald eagle. According to the National Audubon Society, there are approximately 10 bald eagle nests in Westmoreland County. The Big Meadow Nature Trail is a self-guided trail featuring an observation tower that overlooks Yellow Swamp. A swimming beach, Olympic-size pool, boat launching area, grocery store, cabins, and visitor center make this one of the best-equipped parks along the lower Potomac. The park offers 3 large campgrounds, 25 housekeeping cabins, and 6 overnight cabins. The housekeeping cabins are mainly rented on a weekly basis and require advance registration. Two-night reservations are available on a limited basis. The overnight cabins are available by reservation as well, but have sleeping quarters only, no kitchen or bathroom. Trails include wetland, forest, and meadow routes. Camping areas are open from March through December 4th. Visitors can also rent boats, including paddleboats and rowboats, for leisurely trips along the Potomac's shore. The park is open daylight to dusk, seven days a week. Admission fee to the park is $1.50 per car on weekends, $1 on weekdays. Additional fees are charged for boat launching, swimming, and advance reservation of picnic shelters. The park has a public interpretive program from Memorial Day through Labor Day. Directions: Westmoreland State Park is 5 miles northwest of Montross, off Va. Route 3. Westmoreland State Park, Route 1, Box 600, Montross, Va. 22520. Telephone: 804-493-8821. Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation, 203 Governors St., Suite 306, Richmond, VA 23219. Telephone: 804-786-2132.

George Washington Birthplace National Monument

On a tobacco farm where Popes Creek joins the Potomac, George Washington was born on February 22, 1732. He lived here until he was 3 and later returned for a few years in his early teens. Washington came to dominate the Potomac Valley in the 18th century, and went on to pick the site of the Nation's Capital on the Potomac, the city that would bear his name. The Washington family moved away from the farm (once known as Popes Creek Plantation) when George was 3 years old. The family continued to keep the farm. George Washington's older half-brother, Augustine, inherited it; a nephew, William Augustine, renamed it "Wakefield." The family burial grounds have the graves of George Washington's father, grandfather, great-grandfather, and half- brother Butler. The monument has a memorial house and kitchen with a living colonial farm and visitor center. A Memorial House stands near the site of the original Washington home, which burned down in 1779. The National Park Service site includes an operating colonial farm, with demonstrations of spinning and weaving, plantation crafts such as wood working, blacksmithing and leatherworking, and the traditional farm activities of plowing, hoeing, planting, harvesting, and ox-driving demonstrations as staffing permits. Wooded walkways lead to Popes Creek and the house and gardens. George Washington Birthplace National Monument is open daily except Christmas and New Year's Day, from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. A picnic area is available, but there are no refreshments except snack and soda machines. Landing of boats and other water craft at the monument is prohibited. The visitor center has a 14-minute film on life at Popes Creek and exhibits on colonial artifacts and Washington family history. Park fees are $2.00 per person. Children 16 and under are admitted free. Birthplace of Presidents. In addition to the site of George Washington's birth, the Northern Neck was the birthplace of two other presidents. President James Monroe was born in a house along the Potomac in 1758 on the creek west of Washington's Birthplace known as Monroe Creek. President James Madison's birthplace is eight miles away, at Port Conway, on the Rappahannock River. An historic marker on Route 3 near Monroe's birthplace describes the sites. Directions: Follow Va. Route 3 to the Northern Neck. The National Monument is located on Route 204 (Popes Creek Road), approximately 1.7 miles east of Route 3. George Washington Birthplace National Monument, National Park Service, RR No. 1, Box 717, Washington's Birthplace, VA 22443. Telephone: 804-224-1732.

Ingleside Plantation

A vineyard is the current occupant of this 50-acre site, which comprises acres of the highest land in the Northern Neck, straddling the Potomac and Rappahannock basins. Since 1832, the site has been used for a school, a Civil War garrison for Union troops, and a dairy. In 1960 Carl Flemer planted grapevines at Ingleside, and began making wine. The winery went into commercial production in 1980. The Potomac played an interesting role in the development of Ingleside Plantation winery. In the early 1980s, Jacques Recht, a retired Belgian winery consultant was sailing in the Atlantic with his wife. When they anchored in the Potomac at Kinsale, they met Carl Flemer, who needed help with his first big harvest; Recht tasted a sample and decided to help with the crush. Today, Ingleside produces about 10,000 cases of wine each year, and has won many awards. Recht has become a consultant, and Ingleside's winemaking responsibilities now are those of Tom Payette, who is continuing Ingleside's award-winning traditions. Ingleside is among the leaders in the emerging Virginia wine industry. The winery sponsors annual wine events with tours and tastings, live music, and regional foods. The plantation is open year-round except major holidays, Monday-Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and on Sundays from 12 to 5 p.m. Free guided tours and wine tasting are available. Private tours and facilities for group parties and picnics are available. Directions: The winery is located 2.5 miles south of the town of Oak Grove in the Northern Neck. Proceed south on Va. 3 to Oak Grove, turn right at Va. Route 638. Follow Route 638 2.5 miles to the winery. Ingleside Plantation Vineyards, Route 638, P.O. Box 1038, Oak Grove, VA 22443. Telephone: 804-224-8687.

Colonial Beach

This town, although small in population, contains the second largest beach front in the state of Virginia, second only to Virginia Beach. Once the most popular summer resort along the lower Potomac, this Victorian river town had a summer population of 10,000 in 1912_and a winter population of 700. Currently, the summer population swells to nearly 15,000, and is continuing to grow. The town flourished during the slot machine era in Southern Maryland. Since Maryland owned the Potomac River up to the low water mark on the Virginia shoreline, it was possible for crafty resort owners on the Virginia shore to build piers out into Maryland waters (separated by an inch or two of space in the boardwalk)_and claim that their establishment was in Charles County, Md. All of this worked to the advantage of Colonial Beach entrepreneurs until Charles County banned the slots in 1968. Colonial Beach thereby went into something of a decline, but has recently begun to flourish again. One of the old casinos, now a restaurant, has opened an off-track betting parlor and also sells Maryland and Virginia lottery tickets. The community features antique and craft shops, restaurants, hotels/motels, and marinas. A sandy beach offers swimming in the Potomac with lifeguards on duty Thursdays through Sundays during the summer. The Colonial Beach Yacht Center features wind-surfing lessons and boat rentals. The 1995 Calendar of Events features events ranging from the circus, festivals, and fireworks to the Rockfish Tournament. Colonial Beach is still a popular fishermen's port as well as the headquarters for the Potomac River Fisheries Commission, which regulates shellfishing in the lower river. Directions: Colonial Beach, Va., is located on Va. Route 205, approximately 10 miles east of the intersection of Va. 205 and U.S. 301. From Virginia, take I-95 or Route 1 south to Fredericksburg Route 3 to Route 205. From Maryland, take Route 5 to U.S. 301 South and cross the Potomac at the Nice Bridge to Va. Route 218 east to Route 205. Town of Colonial Beach, 18 N. Irving Ave., Colonial Beach, VA 22443. Telephone: 804-224-7181. For information on events, call 804-224-8145.

King George County, Va.

County seat is King George. The county is bounded on the north by the Potomac River and on the south by the Rappahannock. Major towns include Edgehill, Shiloh, Port Conway, and Fairfiew Beach.

Dahlgren

The U.S. Navy uses the lower Potomac as a testing range for its projectiles. The Naval Surface Weapons Center operates the Dahlgren Facility, a large research and development center at the Virginia side of the 301 bridge. The site is home to the Naval Space Command, the AEGIS Training Center, and the Naval Space Surveillance System. Tours are available by appointment. Dahlgren Naval Surface Weapons Center, U.S.Navy, Dahlgren, VA 22448.

Potomac Gateway Welcome Center

For travelers entering Virginia from the U.S. 301 Bridge, the state has established a Welcome Center just beyond the bridge. The center stocks a variety of brochures and information on the Northern Neck and Virginia sites. Near the center are two recreational areas. Wayside Park is on U.S. 301 just south of the bridge. It has a small boat ramp and beach, picnic areas, and good views of the lower Potomac. Operated by the King George County Parks and Recreation Department, this 3-acre park is open year round. Barnesfield Park is adjacent to Wayside Park and the Potomac Gateway Welcome Center. This 165-acre park features numerous sports fields, pavilions, play areas, a fitness trail, as well as other recreational trails lined with bird houses and feeders. The park is located on the grounds of what was a working plantation until the Civil War. The house was totally destroyed by a Union gunboat in 1861 and never rebuilt. Virginia's Potomac Gateway Welcome Center, P.O. Box 71, King George, VA 22485. Telephone: 703-663-3205; administrative office telephone: 703-775-4FUN.

Northern Neck Potomac Boat Ramps Marinas, and Campgrounds

Yeocomico Marina and Campground: Route 608 off Rt. 202 in Kinsale. Telephone: 804-472-2971 Kinsale Harbor Marina: Rte 203, Kinsale. Telephone: 804-472-2514. Coles Point Plantation Marina and Campground: Rte. 728, Coles Point, VA 22442. Telephone: 804-472-3955. White Point Marina: Rt. 744, Kinsale, VA 22488. Telephone: 804-472-2977 Colonial Beach Yacht Center: 1787 Castlewood Drive, Colonial Beach, VA 22443. Telephone: 804-224-7230. Harbor View Marina: Rt. 3, East of Oak Grove on Rt. 644, Oak Grove, VA 22443. Telephone: 804-224-9265. Monroe Bay Marina: Rt. 3, West on 205, on Rt. 723, Colonial Beach, VA 22443. Telephone: 804-224-7418.